How far along are you?

Just wondering how far along each of the cars on here is. Right now mine runs, but I have not driven it. I need to finish the brakes (ran all new lines and replacing cylinders and shoes) and put on new tires. I think I can drive it after that. Then onto the interior, which the previous owner had brand new carpet for it when I picked it up. Just need to patch a part in the driver's floorboard, then lay it down. Other than that, the interior will stay pretty much as is. The last will be paint. How far along are your cars?

lol

Just acquired my 61 Skylark a few days before Thanksgiving.  Bought it from Bubba Crouch ( maybe some of you know him from the V8 board ).  All I can say is WOW what a stand up guy.  Was really fun talking with him -- made sure it got loaded onto the car transport ok, couldn't have asked for a smoother deal.  Anyways, car doesn't need much -- it looks good and runs the same.  I have already made a handful of changes/upgrades since receiving it.  The list includes removing the dinky air cleaner he had on it and finding a factory one of which I sandblasted, powdercoated a matte black to match the exterior paint, and applied the factory decal.  I've converted the generator over to a 100A alternator.  I've added 5.25" components and a set of 6.5" speakers to the doors/dash, they are powered by a new customautosound bluetooth stereo I installed.  I also powdercoated the factory dash clock, removed its innards, and replaced them with a tach.  In the next week or so, Ill be pulling the stock radiator out ( it has a leak, of which Bubba told me about ) and am working with a company to start producing exact replicas in aluminum so Ill keep everyone posted on that, it will certainly benefit the 61-63 community!!  And as discussed on the yahoo group Im going to be getting some axles made by Moser for the rear and then converting to front discs so I can run 5 x 4.75 wheels.  Ive already got an awesome set that will look good.  Beyond that Im just planning on enjoying it this summer -- eventually I might bag it but that is a WAYYS down the line if it happens.  Ill post some pix when I get a chance to get some good ones -- we're getting some nasty ice/rain/drizzle today.

Keith--

Can you elaborate a little more on the scarebird conversion? Maybe start a new thread about it listing the parts you used, how long you estimate the conversion took, any problems you ran into, etc... obviously this is something Im interested in and Im sure it would be beneficial for all. It would be much appreciated.

Josh

When I got mine this summer the couple I bought it from said the top end of the engine and the tranny were re-built before it was stored 10 years ago. I figured "yeah right". When I got it home I pulled the plugs and put some MMO down the cylinders along with regular oil and let it sit for two days. I tried to fire it up and it purred like a kitten. That was the most excited I have been for a while. I did the switch over for the master cylinder- I think you were the one on the yahoo group that suggested the new type. I ground away part of the frame rail and it slipped in perfect. I just have to run the lines from the distribution block in the rear to the wheel cylinders and rebuild the drivers side brake, and I should be good. One thing though- I thought the tail light switch would fit right in the distribution block. Initially I thought it did, but now it is definitely loose. Did it ever fit right, or do I need an adapter?

Bill wrote:When I got mine this summer the couple I bought it from said the top end of the engine and the tranny were re-built before it was stored 10 years ago. I figured "yeah right". When I got it home I pulled the plugs and put some MMO down the cylinders along with regular oil and let it sit for two days. I tried to fire it up and it purred like a kitten. That was the most excited I have been for a while.

That's really awesome to hear and Im sure was abit of a relief too! Bubba indicated he had mine down to check bearings and replaced somethings as maintenance ( ie oil pump, fuel pump, rebuilt carb ). It runs really well and has great oil pressure.

Bill wrote:I did the switch over for the master cylinder- I think you were the one on the yahoo group that suggested the new type. I ground away part of the frame rail and it slipped in perfect. I just have to run the lines from the distribution block in the rear to the wheel cylinders and rebuild the drivers side brake, and I should be good. One thing though- I thought the tail light switch would fit right in the distribution block. Initially I thought it did, but now it is definitely loose. Did it ever fit right, or do I need an adapter?

Are you asking me? or Keith? I haven't messed with the brakes at all yet so it wasn't me -- I certainly am interested in any findings however...

Also, I forgot to mention I have a little something special planned for the tops of the doors and rear qtrs on the interior ( the steel portions just under the windows ) -- Im going to wrap them in 3M carbon fiber vinyl -- I think it will look sweet with the tweed and I won't have to worry about scratches/scuffs on the paint anymore either -- the wrap should be here in a few days -- hopefully Ill have it all done by the end of the month.

It was aimed at Keith. I know several people chimed in on a dual master cylinder replacement on the Yahoo Groups. How do you like your matte paint? I was thinking of doing a blue matte on the bottom half of the car. I have the color all picked out. It is the Berlin Blue that GM makes just flattened... Here it is on a concept Malibu-

http://www.torquenews.com/106/chevrolet-malibu-performance-concept-shows-what-could-be-sema

I am curious how you like the wraps. I had read a lot about them and was wondering how easy they are to install. Also, I was planning on doing a bluetooth receiver right into a four channel amp for the audio so that I can keep the dash original and there would be no visible signs of an aftermarket install.

I plan on taking out the clock delete and putting in a water gauge there... I have seen a couple that would look stock, and I hate that I would only have an idiot light for the temp.

Also, what alternator did you use? I want to make the switch too.

Bill wrote:It was aimed at Keith. I know several people chimed in on a dual master cylinder replacement on the Yahoo Groups. How do you like your matte paint? I was thinking of doing a blue matte on the bottom half of the car. I have the color all picked out. It is the Berlin Blue that GM makes just flattened... Here it is on a concept Malibu-

That would be an awesome color!  The matte finish is nice, ive always liked the look and ease of care BUT they are nearly impossible to fix flaws -- scuffs and scratches are just that and there is really no way to spot repair.  Thing is I guess I figure it adds to the character of the vehicle -- my HD is their flat denim so Ive learned how to take care of it.  One word -- Windex lol -- its the recommended cleaner and you will never wax the care cuz waxing/buffing will make the finish glossy.  Depending on how the finish is on your car now you might consider plastidipping it -- you can get the matte finish ( pretty sure it can be custom colored now too ) and then when/if you're unhappy with it peel it off and start a new -- its how I plan on painting my other Buick this spring.

Bill wrote:I am curious how you like the wraps.   I had read a lot about them and was wondering how easy they are to install.

This would be another great alternative to painting with the matte finish -- as for how I like them, vinyl wraps are awesome -- just like plastidip it can go on and come right back off without ruining the finish underneath it -- Im really excited about the CF pattern going on the interior I think it will really pull things together!  If you were thinking about doing the whole car, it can be done with some patience BUT you might want to consider letting a pro do it if you want a "show" quality job.

Bill wrote:Also, I was planning on doing a bluetooth receiver right into a four channel amp for the audio so that I can keep the dash original and there would be no visible signs of an aftermarket install.

I like my stereo it looks pretty factory -- no need to mess with the dash, etc.. it fits right where the OEM did -- only an car guru would know its not the real thing.

Bill wrote:I plan on taking out the clock delete and putting in a water gauge there... I have seen a couple that would look stock, and I hate that I would only have an idiot light for the temp.

I can relate there!  I just put in a $30 3 gauge setup ( volt, water temp, oil pressure ) right under the dash -- its clean, looks good, & functions well.

Bill wrote:Also, what alternator did you use? I want to make the switch too.

I bought a kit off ebay -- came with the 100A alternator, the "f" bracket, & wiring instructions -- if I knew now I could have saved probably $40-50 just pcing it together -- you can get the alternator from just about any 80's model vehicle -- I saw a list somewhere on the internet ( pretty sure you can use a 86 camaro alt ( may have to change the clocking though, not sure ) -- the bracket can be bought from any speed shop ( costs like $20 ) -- I really decided to just pay the extra cuz I wasn't sure how to handle the wiring -- turns out its really simple -- if and when you're ready to make the switch I can walk you through everything and you can save yourself a few bux.  FYI I also ended up having to buy a slightly longer belt.

Just spent several hours looking up what plasti dipping your car means and wow! This is a very cool short term option for my budget. It even looks like there is a color similiar to what I wanted. Very neat. I will be doing rims in it at the very least. Thanks for that info- I had never heard of it before and would never have guessed how viable/easy/budget friendly option it is.

Awesome! Glad I was able to turn you on to something new! It is definiitely a great way to make a big statement for a pretty cheap investment. Best part of course is it's completely reversible too!

BTW I may have stumbled upon a very simple / cost effective way to convert the rear over to BIG discs. I have to go out to the garage today and do some measuring and will report back -- I think total cost to switch over INCLUDING a brand new set of Moser axles to support the 5x4.75 bolt pattern will be under $700 and could be done in a days time if you have everything in front of you.

lol

I will take a look today. I bet you are right, I probably have an Alternator if it was stock.

woody1640 wrote:Josh: I'd be more than happy to start a new thread and do a writeup on the scarebird conversion ... I will need a few days here ( a lil busy) and i need to gather my notes and I wanna take some pics of mine to post as well so everyone totally understands how to do it.

That would super awesome -- look forward to seeing it. Thanks in advance!

Has either of you by chance had the rear drum off? Is the back plate held on by studs that extend through the rear axle tube?? Looks like it and if so Im almost positive it all can be removed and replaced with 2000 Trans Am rear discs -- we made the conversion on my G body by cutting the ear off the axle tube and drilling holes for bolts but it looks like its possible that it would be a bolt on deal for this car if it does have studs already....

I had the rear drum off earlier this month on the passenger side. I can pull it and get pictures, but I have the shop manual if that would be of more use. I can scan that section if that would be easier. Let me know.

LOL -- I didn't even give it a thought to look through the manual -- I keep forgetting I have it. No need, Ill just take a look myself, tx though.

Based on the illustrations in the service manual it appears my assumptions are correct -- Im going to go back out and measure the OC's on both my Gbody and the Sky and see but I think the 2000 TA discs will be a bolt on deal -- at worst the lower shock mount may have to be moved similar to how it was done on my Gbody, it was just a simple kit, cost less than $25.00.  Here's a pic of the 2000 setup.  

Will it require a brake booster then? I don't think disc brakes work well without a booster.

I know plenty of people who run 4 wheel discs manual brakes, obviously a booster makes the pedal effort required a little easier but it really is no different than the 4 wheel drum w/o booster like it is right now -- so the short answer is no, you don't have to have a booster to make them work -- you will want a MC that is sized for your piston diameters and adj. proportioning valve to get the front/rear bias correct.

So you won't run a dual master cylinder? Why would you need a front/rear proportioning valve if you had a dual mc?

No, i will run a dual MC but u will still need proportioning valve. The only thing omitted will be the booster.

Did you begin this at all yet? If so, a walk through wold be great. How hard is it to track down a set of brakes from these trans ams? Also, if I keep the front brakes as-is, I would have four bolt and five bolt patterns then. Is there an adapter to make the four into the same pattern as the five bolt?

Bill wrote:Did you begin this at all yet? If so, a walk through wold be great. How hard is it to track down a set of brakes from these trans ams? Also, if I keep the front brakes as-is, I would have four bolt and five bolt patterns then. Is there an adapter to make the four into the same pattern as the five bolt?

Bill--
I haven't started on this yet -- my funds are tied up at the moment having a custom, direct fit replacement aluminum radiator being made. This my next project once I have the rad back. It's easy to track down the brake setup -- there is a gentleman on EBAY whom thats all he does is sell these OEM parts as a kit -- it runs around $250 total shipped, includes everything, thats how I went about the conversion on my gbody -- just know it will all be used parts -- Im gonna hold out hope that I can just find the backing plates by themselves this time around and then buy new rotors/calipers/pads. I will definitely do a write up when it happens. As for the adapters -- there are none out there that Im aware of. Wish there was cuz it would be atleast a stop gap for the time being.

After this winter, I'll be about 2/3 done with my total plan. I'd like to make this car look like a period-correct build, as if it were competing in road race events in the 60's.

Every year, I take another project "bite" out of it, towards the final plan. I try to make sure that each bite stays within a reasonable budget, and can be finished in time to have at least 3 months of summer driving.

I bought the car in March 2013, and it needed rear axle replacement, a transmission swap, and brake rebuild before I could drive it. The T5 swap led to a new driveshaft build as well. I finished it up late July 2013, and drove it through October.

Over the winter of 2013-2014, I wanted to repaint the dash and improve the transmission tunnel. This led to the complete removal of the interior, a new wire harness from the dash forward, total reconstruction of the floor, and a tilt steering column. I also rebuilt the distributor with a points eliminator and added a CD ignition box. I was able to complete that stuff by July 1 last year, and added Tempest repop door panels at the end of July.

This winter, I pulled the engine so I could detail the engine compartment. While the engine bay  is empty, I decided to do disc brakes as well. I'll be stripping the paint, welding a ton of screw holes shut, and refinishing. Plus, I'm cleaning up the engine. With some advice from Mark at D&D, I'm disassembling the engine for a thorough cleaning a re-sealing. D&D also resurfaced my flywheel, and build a diaphragm-style clutch for me.

Next winter's plan includes pulling the front and rear glass and repainting the roof in pearl white. The following year will be the paint on the rest of the car (probably Porsche GT Silver). At some point, I also want to install an Offy 2x2 intake with a pair of Rochester 2G carburetors.

By the way, I take photos of everything and upload them into a Photobucket account. If you click on the globe by my user information, it will link you there.

regal81455 wrote:Based on the illustrations in the service manual it appears my assumptions are correct -- Im going to go back out and measure the OC's on both my Gbody and the Sky and see but I think the 2000 TA discs will be a bolt on deal -- at worst the lower shock mount may have to be moved similar to how it was done on my Gbody, it was just a simple kit, cost less than $25.00.  Here's a pic of the 2000 setup.  

One thing to be careful of here is the fact that our cars use uncommon 1 3/4" wide drum brake shoes. Most '64-later drums are 2" wide. So, even though the axle housing bolt pattern is a fit, the rotors will sit 1/4" closer to the mounting point, which may require custom caliper brackets.