Ball Joints - 1962 Special

Anyone got the part numbers for the upper/lowers? Like a part number I can use at NAPA, AutoZone, etc.?

Thanks.

Hope this was meant to be a bad joke lol -- in all seriousness though GL finding a store that has off-the-shelf ball joints for our compacts BUT I can offer the following info.

#1 -- There are two types of lower ball joints -- threaded or pressed-in. You need to determine which you have before replacing. Easy to tell -- the top of the joint ( in this case the bottom side of the LCA ) will either have a hex head or be round -- if it's the hex head then it's the threaded version. My lowers were the pressed in kind -- if you don't have BJ press and need one -- borrow it from AZ or similar chain parts house.

#2 -- Part #s are as follows:

UBJ -- GM 5675725
LBJ ( THREADED ) -- MOOG K593
LBJ ( PRESSED ) -- GM 1396309

That should help you figure out which direction to go -- just a little google time and you'll have some options to work with.

#3 -- I purchased repros for PST as part of a full front end rebuild using their parts -- so far fairly happy with them and the price was reasonable. http://p-s-t.com/

Rare parts and OPGI have BJ offerings as well.

#4 -- Please note the "threaded" BJs are not really threaded per se -- they have raised ridges on them but I had to be informed that the threads cut themselves when reinstalling so don't be concerned if it doesn't seem to be threading properly when turning them in -- just make sure they go in straight and then bottom out on the CA and get snug. If a little loose for some reason a few tack-welds wouldn't be unreasonable to feel more confident in the retention.

#5 -- FYI - One thing that I noticed that may not necessarily be the case with other manufacturers but was with the PST threaded BJ was the hex head was an ODD size hex -- I ended up having to wrap the head in electrical tape and mash the slightly loose socket on it to get it to grab once things started getting tight.

GL with the replacement -- and if I might suggest you should consider a front spring swap while you have the BJs separated.

Ok thanks for the info, I purchased the set up from PST, we'll see how it goes. My joints are press in so it should work out ok.

Your welcome -- please give us an update after install!!

regal81455 wrote:Your welcome -- please give us an update after install!!

Bought the kit, will advise when the install is complete.

Broke the lower right a-arm last night. Now I need a set of ball joints and more. Mine are screw in type. The Moog are NLA. Any comments about the quality of PST? Their prices are decent, but I do not want to put junk on my car. They claim OEM quality or better. CARS has stuff, but it does not have the inner pivots. Rare Parts is crazy expensive, but has everything. Also do not know what the quality is and if it is worth the difference. It is a bit scary when the mainstream parts mfrs do not make parts for our cars any more and we have to work so hard to find out if the parts we do find are of decent quality. Looking for some 9001 or better quality systems and understanding of teh metallurgy required, etc of the manufacturer and am very dubious of any which have the Made in China label because I have seen some terrible junk out there. They can make good stuff, but it seems like auto parts are the 'wild west', any more.

How in the world did you break the right a-arm?  I though you just swapped in shocks the other day?

I can't attest to the quality from an ISO standpoint or about whether one batch is as good as another but I'm using the PST parts ( uppers and lower BJs, sleeve bushings, etc.. ) in my car and so far so good - for reference I drive the car probably 4-5x per month during the "drivable" months in IL.  Probably have 500 miles or so on mine.  May just be lucky and my experience.

Aside from doing a lot of digging and possible trial and error I don't know how much choice you have though?

Cycle fatigue and it finally gave way. I'd check for cracks in the same place on yours as well. This can happen RHS is more likely due to pot holes being on the curb side in the US and road crown loading the right a tad bit more. This can happen to 79-93 Saab 900s as well. Almost always the RHS and at a stress riser on the a-arm.
Picture of broken a-arm

Yes, I just put shocks on it including the rears on Saturday. Rode nice until it gave way on the Kennedy east bound at Cicero Ave. Took 3 hours to get it home waiting for a second tow truck with a picker instead of a flat bed. And I was just getting ready to put it away for the winter...

You can see where it was 80% across then just gave way.

Yikes dood - glad you're ok - did it mash up any body work or did you walk away mostly unscathed except for your mood and the a-arm?

When I rebuilt the front end I sandblasted and re-painted my a-arms when I pulled them out to press the BJs out. Didn't notice anything then but you got me worried now though! One of the arms was a real PITA to remove and replace the BJ. I hope I didn't do any ancillary damage when doing the replacement.

I was fine. No bodywork damage. Just a bad mood. It could have been a lot worse. I could have been going 70mph instead of 20. I'll get it. Dave from the Yahoo group may have an a-arm. I'd like to get this done and this car in storage sooner rather than later.

That's good to hear, definitely could've been a whole lot worse.

Rare Parts parts fit good, and are good quality, used them on 2 cars. You need to buy as a shop, BIG discount. Do you have someone who can qualify buy for you? Doesn't take much to qualify. Go through Glen in the shop to do it, not the sales desk.

Excuse me for interrupting you guys

Maybe this is nothing, but I've some kind of crosslist with partnumbers for old cars.
I just thought it might be helpful to know for the future.

"1950-65 General Motors Interchange Manual"

Kind Regards /Sonny

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