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Front disc brake conversion (Scarebird)

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Post by keithg Mon Aug 31, 2015 8:33 am

Well, I spent another couple hours on research... The wheel studs need to be replaced with some which are a bit longer and also I want to replace the LH thread studs with RH threaded studs. The knurl is ~9/16 and the stocks are 1 - 5/16. Try to search on these critical features... even the Dorman page wants to list them by model make and year. Finally ordered Dorman 610-114 Dorman studs. They are 1-21/23 long and hopefully they will fit under the head of the closed end lug nuts. The bigger problem was finding lug nuts for these ancient Appliance wheels. I bought a set at Jegs over 10 years ago but cannot find them on their page. 2 phone conversations later, they do not have them any more. I found them on Amazon after actually finding the part number through the google. Gorilla 79177... Appliance step lug nuts

I ordered the Fairmont master as it was very cheap on Rock Auto where I got the rotors. If I decide to use a different one, big deal but I'll have it to mock up. Now, how did we all plumb it up? I guess I'll have to buy a crimper and some fittings? I read this one was pretty good:
Eastwood Flare tool

Comments?

Keith

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Post by Bill Mon Aug 31, 2015 5:56 pm

I was able to take the stock lengths to O'Reilly's and find pre-flared sections around the same length. I then used a tube bender and ran them myself.
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Post by keithg Wed Sep 02, 2015 8:13 am

I got the Fairmont master last night and compared it to a spare OEM master. The fairmont does not have a push rod (power master) and the OEM has the push rod retained by a clip/washer to the master. The fairmont has a 'deep hole' in the piston. I have read this in some other hot rod brake web pages that a manual master has to have a 'deep hole'. Now I know what that means. It must allow some angular rotation at the master to allow the brake pedal to move and rotate through its arc. What have others done? What push rod was used with the AMC/Jeep master? I am assuming that because it is also for manual brakes that it also has a 'deep hole'. I guess I'm going to have to lay down under the dash and start measuring pivot points and angular pedal travel as I have not seen this documented anywhere.

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Post by keithg Tue Sep 08, 2015 10:28 am

I made a pushrod out of the OEM master push rod and a piece of 3/8-16 all thread. I was able to put the Fairmont master in and get it bled (what a pain). Still running with drums at the front, but now I can get them to warm up and stop the car, though the pedal is longer than I like. I may go with a 1" after all, but this is fine for now. All plumbed up and ready for calipers.

I have the drums in the shop and am drilling the studs out this week. Ended up getting Dorman 610-114 studs (0.582 Knurl 1-21/32 long). All RH threads at this stage as I am done with the RH/LH deal. I have a disc, so I'll turn the hub to clear it while I have them here. The only remaining bits are the calipers, brackets and hoses. I have pictures and will figure out how to upload them.
Front disc brake conversion (Scarebird) - Page 2 Pushro11
Pushrod
Front disc brake conversion (Scarebird) - Page 2 Fairmo10
Installed, bled and ready for a ride around the block

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Post by keithg Wed Sep 23, 2015 8:49 am

Still moving forward. Now waiting for Scarebird Brackets. Ordered last Friday. Will not ship until this Friday (maybe, they are 'out for plating'). I decided to go with the CPP big bore calipers. At 60.00 each with hardware and pads, it looks like the deal. Also, they look nice. Painted grey. I was going to order them from CPP directly (Awful web page, btw), but they said 3 days to process order and maybe go out next week!?! Plus shipping. I found them on Summit racing web site. same price free shipping.

Summit CPP Caliper

Ordered Friday, received Tuesday morning! Purchased Dorman hoses from Rock Auto. Unless someone knows what the bolt specs are, I'll have to wait until I get the brackets and size it up, but that should be the last component needed that I do not have.

Ordered new grease seals so I can repack the bearings... They show up and the 'seal material' is  felt!?! With the removal of the backing plate, I am uncomfortable with just a felt 'seal' here. I looked around and a '68 Plymouth Fury 3 seal (National 6840S) which is the same ID, OD and thickness but is a rubber lip seal. Ordered from Amazon. delivered in 2 days. I'll re-pack and put these in this weekend as I cannot do anything else until the brackets get here.

Anxious to get these on and see if the pedal feel is good enough or if I'll have to go to a 1" M/C from the 21mm. The 21mm is 68% of the area of the 1" so I expect a pretty big 'feel' difference between them.


Last edited by keithg on Wed Sep 30, 2015 4:47 pm; edited 1 time in total

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Post by keithg Tue Sep 29, 2015 8:00 am

I received the brackets yesterday and did a trial fit last night. First thing, the bolt which comes with the kit from scarebird is too long, at least for my spindle, by at least a 1/4" if not more. Second, I cannot put in all 3 bolts at the same time. Third, the upper alignment pin on the caliper interferes with the rotor. Something is not right.

Caliper in place

The first one is not a big deal. I can go to a hardware store and get another grade 8 bolt. Also, they give the one bolt but not the other 2 which also need to be 1/4" longer. I thought that was a bit odd. I may be able to deal with both 2 and 3 by myself, but it becomes a project. I bought these expecting a 'bolt on experience' and not a design project. Can anyone put a feeler stock on the gap between the rotor and the guide pins of the caliper? On my mock up last night, i had interference on the top pin and 0.042" on the lower.

On the minor side, it appears that I'll have to file off a corner of the caliper (I got the CPP big bore brake calipers) to clear the inside of my 14" rim. There are raised letters/numbers on the inside of my appliance mag wheel and the letters hit the caliper. Probably easier to grind off a tiny bit of the caliper than remove material from the inside of the mag...

Has anyone else noticed the hole misalignment issue, or am I the first?

Keith

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Post by keithg Tue Sep 29, 2015 10:24 am

Arrrrrrgh! I read this post and ordered these calipers. Now that I have them and the Scarebird brackets, I am see that there is a mismatch. These are not direct replacement for the D154 GM caliper. For some reason, CPP decided that the pin center distance should be 5.5" instead of the 5.46" (138.7mm) of the GM metric caliper. This is why it is almost impossible to get the pins to go into the outer holes without pushing out the o-rings. To use these calipers, it appears that a modification of the bracket is required. I am guessing a mill and a helicoil would do it, but still... Why did they do it? Makes for fewer opportunities for them to sell calipers.

CPP Big Bore

Wilwood correct pin center distance

Keith

EDIT!! - I measured them. They are 5.5", non-standard pin spacing. I would not recommend these for the Scarebird kit. I wish CPP would have used the stock distance. Now to see if Summit will take them back


Tim_D wrote:I'm in process of doing this conversion over the winter as well.

- The brackets were sourced from Scarebird.
- The master cylinder is a '94-up S10 unit. It's aluminum, 1" bore, and is not much longer than the stocker. However, I have to figure out a way to retain the pedal pushrod.
- I am using calipers from CPP. They are a nice, clean casting and come loaded with pads, pins, and bleeders. At $60 apiece, they're a little pricier than rebuilt stockers (about $30 with core charge), but you still have to buy pads etc. I think the added cost, when all parts are considered, is probably minimal. Here's the link to the calipers - http://www.classicperform.com/Store/1955_1970_Fullsize_Cars/CP412526.htm

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Post by Tim_D Thu Oct 01, 2015 11:09 am

Keith, I hadn't noticed a mismatch between the CPP caliper and the Scarebird bracket. Although the slider pins went in tight, everything self aligned during operation, and no binding etc. has been observed. The photo shows clearance from the slider pin to the rotor as well (from page 1 of this post, copied again below). You've got me worried though; I'll take a closer look at it now that I've accumulated a couple hundred miles. If there is binding, it should be pretty apparent with slider pin wear.

Front disc brake conversion (Scarebird) - Page 2 A66224E8-6FD4-48E5-8861-E501739D2193_zps91gwcwmm

I share your pain about the bolts Scarbird provided in the kit. I have a large selection of spare bolts accumulated over the years that I had to dig into.

Finally, I had to grind a little from the lower edges of the CPP calipers as well, when using my 15" Konig Rewind wheels. The wheel mounting pad on these particular wheels is a little bigger diameter than most mounting pads, requiring this slight mod.

I remember having the same thought as you when putting this together - namely that I expected the kit to be more bolt-on. Then I remebered that no "bolt-on" kit I ever bought truly was. It's even worse for this car, since it's so poorly supported by the aftermarket. Hang in there - once the myriad of little issues are ironed out, you'll be happy with the performance.


Last edited by Tim_D on Thu Oct 01, 2015 11:24 am; edited 1 time in total
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Post by keithg Thu Oct 01, 2015 11:23 am

Tim,

I was able to assemble the CPP calipers to the bracket. What bugs me is that I've contacted CPP and they claim this is the first time they've heard about any mismatch. I just measured it on the bench and the CPP caliper is definitely 5.5". Now, why would a caliper called 'GM Metric' have an even half inch pin spacing on it? Scarebird said their pin spacing is 5.46" (138.7mm) on the bracket. All Wilwood D154 'Gm Metric' calipers are also 5.46" as are a couple other brands I've run across. It is just CPP that maintains theirs are correct though they are off by ~1mm which I feel is significant. I don't doubt they will fit and work, but they are not 'right', IMO.

I contacted Scarebird and they will take care of getting the brackets to fit. I'm measuring what It should be and will give them confirming numbers so they can be made to fit properly.

Keith (In Chicago)

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Post by Tim_D Thu Oct 01, 2015 11:32 am

Weird. Don't know what to say, sorry if you feel you were mislead by my post.

To top it off, CPP claims to be selling their Big Bore Metric Caliper on all their kits that use GM metric calipers. I'm with you that 0.06 inch (1.52mm) would likely show up as significant in mounting and usage. I'll definitely take a close look at the pins. But as of right now, I just haven't seen any evidence of an operational issue.
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Post by keithg Thu Oct 01, 2015 11:45 am

Tim,

I don't blame you. It looks like a great deal and they appear nicely made. I blame CPP for advertising that they will work for any GM Metric installation, changing the dimension and not owning up to the fact that it is not standard. I am guessing their brackets are sized for 5.5" for their caliper. Why would Wilwood on all their D154 replacements (And Scarebird on their bracket) use 5.46" if it was not what the general intended?

btw, it is 0.04" or ~1mm. The way to measure it is to take the caliper off the bracket and place the pins in it (they will center in the o-rings), measure across it and subtract the diameter of the pin. The one I measured is definitely 5.5".

Keith

Tim_D wrote:Weird. Don't know what to say, sorry if you feel you were mislead by my post.

To top it off, CPP claims to be selling their Big Bore Metric Caliper on all their kits that use GM metric calipers. I'm with you that 0.06 inch (1.52mm) would likely show up as significant in mounting and usage. I'll definitely take a close look at the pins. But as of right now, I just haven't seen any evidence of an operational issue.

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Front disc brake conversion (Scarebird) - Page 2 Empty CPP caliper with bracket.

Post by keithg Thu Oct 01, 2015 2:07 pm

I re-measured. The Scarebird brackets are +0.2/-0.00 on 138.7mm the CPP caliper is 139.7. (as expected)

One pin installed:

Front disc brake conversion (Scarebird) - Page 2 Cpp_ca10

Placing 2nd pin in without forcing alignment:

Front disc brake conversion (Scarebird) - Page 2 Cpp_ca11

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Post by keithg Thu Oct 08, 2015 7:55 pm

Well, I've kind of hijacked this thread.

The story of the film so far: I bought a set of GM Metric (Delco Reman) with pads off Rock Auto for 90.00. To use these, I would need to mill off a part of the caliper to get it to clear the scarebird bracket. Scarebird still claims they will 'make it right' for me. Problem is I have to get this project out of the garage and into storage. So, I grabbed my digital calipers and started measuring. I used the installation drawing form Wilwood for their GM Metric caliper and measured the bolt pattern on the spindle, double checked it on the other side and made a drawing. I caught a couple other errors with the Scarebird bracket, too. 1) They weld in the nuts and there is error in location due to this method causing, at least my set, to be narrower than the 138.7mm on center. this is why the CPP calipers did not even go on for me. it was 1mm small (2mm smaller than the CPP caliper!). 2) the depth of the pocket on the back side is 1/8 on their bracket. On my car it is 3/32" (edit: actually 1/8"- double checked), so this will pull the caliper top edge in toward the car CL and not parallel to the disc. After I measured it all, I had an acrylic template made to check fit. The pins are in the correct position to the disc on this bracket. I'm getting a set of brackets made to my drawing here locally and will figure out what to do with Scarebird later. My bracket will be made for the CPP caliper and will fit my spindles. The pin center distance will be done by the laser jet then tapped. This will require me to use a 1/8" spacer behind the caliper ears on the back of the bracket to get correct spacing to the disc, but I'm fine with that. the holes will all be in the right place.

I'm sending the GM calipers back.

Does anyone want a set of brackets made to my drawing (cpp caliper pin spacing and designed for the mitsubishi rotors)? I'll sell them at my cost which will be about what the Scarebird brackets cost (~140.00). I'll also forward my drawing to Scarebird. I want others to be able to get these on as well and Scarebird seem to be the best place to have it live.


Last edited by keithg on Sun Nov 08, 2015 2:06 pm; edited 1 time in total (Reason for editing : correction)

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Post by regal81455 Fri Oct 09, 2015 4:59 am

Sounds like you've done quite abit of re-engineering! Thank you for this! I'm wanting to do this conversion here eventually just not in a place I can do it quite yet. Would you be willing to share the drawing here though so we could d/l it and have a local cut it out for us when we're in that moment? It would be greatly appreciated!
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Post by keithg Fri Oct 09, 2015 8:40 am

Regal,

I do not know how I feel about that. I was able to make a bracket because I had Scarebird's brackets. I did not do it from scratch. I subsequently checked it all based on my measurements and available installation drawings. They started it and I adjusted it to be to my satisfaction. I'd prefer that they change their drawing a bit so these would fit for others in the future. I have shared my drawing with them and also shared the fact that the GM caliper does not appear to fit without modification (at least the ones I got wouldn't without grinding/milling away a lug on the caliper) and the CPP caliper does not fit b/c CPP uses a nonstandard pin center distance.

Keith

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Post by regal81455 Fri Oct 09, 2015 10:11 am

No sweat Keith!

Wasn't tryin' to turn a buck on your dime ( if that's what you were thinkin' ) just know that I could have those brackets cut out for the price of the steel since I have access to a plasma table. Ill just deal with Scarebird when the timing lines up.

Name is Josh BTW Smile
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Post by keithg Fri Oct 09, 2015 4:55 pm

Josh,

Just contact me when you need something. I am giving the benefit of the doubt to Scarebird that they will use the dimensions I gave them and will fix their drawing. I do not know if they will or not. I do not want to profit (or take money out of their pocket) since I used theirs as a basis. I offered DXF and IGS to them and will see if they ask for it or not. To have someone make a set of these will cost as much as Scarebird and they will not be cadmium plated at that point. It just seems to make sense to leverage them. I would ask them, though, if they have adjusted their drawing at all since their parts did not fit very well. Also keep in mind that with the GM calipers you will have to modify either the caliper or the bracket to clear the casting and the center distance is not the same on the CPP caliper...

more later

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Post by keithg Mon Nov 02, 2015 4:44 pm

Well, I finally got it together. There is still air in the system, somewhere. I think it must be in the line to the RF. So I have not been able to get a firm pedal yet. The brackets bolted on with no problems. The holes all line up. The CPP caliper pins fit without being bound as I used the 5.5" pin center distance on my brackets. I did have to put 5mm spacers on the front discs to get the calipers to clear the back of my wheels. I'll investigate further to see if I can file off a bit of the calipers and ditch the spacers or get a new set of rims/tires, but this is good enough for now.

Keith
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Post by keithg Sun Nov 08, 2015 1:48 pm

Well, I had a friend help again today to get the air out of the system. I took the M/C off and disassembled it. All looks good. reassembled. Bench bled it. Hooked it up and bled it again to all 4 corners. Still a long pedal. I think it may be the Ford Fairmont 21mm master cylinder (the one recommended by Scarebird). It just takes a lot of pedal to get it stop and then it never really 'goes solid'. It feels like it could be air, but it may just be the 21mm versus 1" (original) master cylinder bore. That is approx. 31% less fluid per inch of pedal travel and it may just be that it needs more fluid to actuate the brakes (rear drums plus the 'big bore' CPP calipers which take 23% more fluid than the GM Metric). The only other thing in the equation is the CPP proportioning valve, it does not have much internal volume. I am discounting it, but I guess it could be contributing. It just does not feel right to me and I am pretty sure I have all the air out (I've bled it 3x and it always feels the same, (Pressure bled with the pedal, vacuum bled with mighty vac). I may go with the 1" AMC master and see how that feels. It may be better to try a 1-1/8".

Any comments?

Keith

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Post by keithg Sun Nov 08, 2015 5:51 pm

Does anyone here know the pedal ratio for the brake pedal? If anyone has access or can measure it, I need the pivot to the center of the pedal and pivot to the push rod. I put the car away for the winter, but did not get this measurement, first, and need it for further brake system development. Armed with this and the caliper measurements, I can size a master.

EDIT: I measured the pedal ratio last night. it is 6:1. 12" to pedal from pivot and 2" from pivot to pushrod. So, going to my previous estimate of 150lbf on the pedal, 6:1 ratio and 1" diameter M/C, the pressure is 1145psi which is suspiciously near the 1200 psi I've seen floated. With 21mm, this is 1676, with 1.0625, this is 1015.


Last edited by keithg on Mon Apr 18, 2016 4:53 pm; edited 1 time in total (Reason for editing : added ratio info)

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Post by keithg Tue Nov 10, 2015 6:57 am

Done a lot more research on master cylinders. I'm convinced that the 21mm is just too small for the CPP calipers and that is why I get a long pedal. I cross referenced a picture book of master cylinders from cardone and searched on the ones which had RHS ports. The basic shape and casting looks like the fairmont master. but I was able to find some manual brake applications with the same port size but larger bores:
Rock Auto Dorman masters
Price        Part Num    bore                       mmy                    fwd port    rear port
$11.64 M105808 21mm  Power Brakes  82 ford Fairmont 1/2" - 20 9/16" - 18
$26.79 M105876 15/16" Manual Brakes 86 Jeep Comanche 1/2" - 20 7/16" - 24
$17.22 M80903 1" Power Brakes   79 cougar 351cuin 1/2" - 20 9/16" - 18
$19.92 M39173 1-1/16" Power Brakes 80-83 F250/F350 5.8L 7/16" - 24 3/8" - 24
$24.79 M39445 1-1/8"  Deep 85 F350 7/16" - 24 3/8" - 24

$32.79 M390183 1-1/16" Rear Drum w/cruise - 1994 F150 4.9L L6 9/16" - 18 M18x1.5
$26.79 M39634 1-1/16" Rear Drum w/o cruise - 1994 F150 4.9L L6 9/16" - 18 M18x1.5 - I'll get this one as I do not need to plug a port
$99.79 M390246 1-1/16" Disc/Disc 95-96 Crown Vic, PI M12x1 M10x1
$21.79 M98908 1" Manual w/rod 72 Gran Torino 1/2" - 20 7/16" - 24

I'm thinking about the 1-1/16 master, but will measure the pedal ratio first to make sure I can get close to 1200 psi with 150 lbf on the pedal (need the pedal ratio) and not have a long pedal - Balancing act.

Edit1: The 1-1/16 has LHS ports. I did find a 93 Bronco with the ports on the correct side, but the front port is M18-1.5 and I do not think I can get a fitting for 3/16 line...

Edit2: added a 1-1/16 with ports on the correct side.

Edit3: Yikes! The local autozone had a  M39173 substitute in stock. It is HUGE. Will not fit. I'm guessing the 1-1/8 from the 85 F350 is similar and too large to be useful. Now, to get a 1-1/16 bore M/C which will fit. My gut says that is what is necessary for these large calipers. May need to look for newer ones and figure out how to adapt the Metric threaded ports.

Edit4/5: Added a couple more possibilities with 1-1/16 bore. The F150 M/C (M390183 or M39634 are identical with the exception that the M390183 has a tapped fitting on top) is probably better as it mounts more horizontal than the Crown Vic one. In the Skylark, the M/C sits just slightly nose up. In the Crown Vic, it looks like it is closer to 30 degrees! Don't know if either will fit, but will probably get one of them to trial fit. These are both aluminum cylinder with plastic tank. The apparent difference is the slanted tank between the F150 and the crown vic versions. Also, the rear port is supposed to have a check valve in it if the vehicle is not ABS which is why it is M18. I will see if I can get a check valve or if a good rebuilt one comes with one (the dorman versions are new but do not come with the checkvalve, at least in the pictures). the checkvalve looks pricey by itself - ford part F8UZ2C161AA when I found it with google, it is $44-68. A junkyard M/c is 10.00. Either I get one or need to adapt the M18 to 3/8-24 fitting. Probably easy enough to make something out of a M18 bolt but I'd rather have a residual valve instead.

Keith


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Post by keithg Mon Apr 18, 2016 4:57 pm

So, I received the M/C and also bought a ford check valve. Unfortunately, I think it may be too long and/or too big in diameter. It is about 1" longer than the Fairmont M/C. Also, it is a bit larger in diameter. I'm worried it may interfere with the frame rail. I already gut off a wedge, but this may be more. I have to trial fit it to be sure.

Can anyone measure their 1" AMC Master and let me know how long it is from the mount flange to the end?

Keith

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Post by keithg Tue Apr 19, 2016 8:54 am

woody1640 wrote:Keith: I can measure mine up for you tomorrow and report back.

I suggest you go back and look at the pics I posted of mine. It is shown bolted up to the firewall and you can see I had to grind a little bit off the edge of the frame rail. If your handy with a wizzer it is a rather quick easy 2 minute job and it looks clean and original (won't hurt the structure any).


Keith

I had to cut a small triangle off mine for the Fairmont M/C as well. I am more concerned that the main body of the M/C will want to live in the same physical volume as the flat part of the frame rail structure. It is ~ 1/16" bigger in diameter (Aluminum versus Iron?, possibly. So that Ford could use the same casting for 1.125 as well as 1.0625, maybe) and about an inch longer (for no reason I can discern).

Also, my 62 is a hardtop and has another brace coming at an angle from the A pillar to the frame rail. As it is right now with the Fairmont M/C, it is about 1/8" from hitting that. Anything with a plastic tank, it should clear it, but that is why the 1.125" M/C I looked at would not fit. It would have run into that brace.

Keith

keithg

Posts : 208
Join date : 2015-01-07

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