Buick Skylark/Special Forum - '61, '62, and '63
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1962 Buick Skylark Convertible

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Wailleur
regal81455
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Post by cdnwillyg Mon Oct 22, 2018 7:22 am

I think to have the higher compression engine the vin needs to have the H instead of the I if I have this right. Yeah my engine compression is sitting around the #130 mark a little lower than I was hoping, so a rebuild maybe in its future. I'm in Arizona now for the winter so the car is resting until spring.
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Post by cdnwillyg Sat Mar 30, 2019 4:53 pm

Back from Arizona now and can't wait to get back at the Skylark, it did fire right up with a little carb cleaner down it. cheers  The 35 year old bias ply tires even held air for the 5.5 months What a Face
Lots of mechanical work to go thru as well as stripping down a parts car for the parts I need.
I am thinking about the  disk conversion kit from BCCP but was hoping to keep it all original...having said that stopping maybe important!!! affraid
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Post by cdnwillyg Mon Apr 08, 2019 4:31 pm

Can someone tell me how to remove the trunk light before I end up breaking it?
Thanks

Found answer from another forum. It just pops off gently with a screwdriver then two small screws. Mercury switch was pooched though. Sad
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Post by cdnwillyg Sat Apr 20, 2019 9:04 am

Finally got my parts car and started the stripping process. It has supplied me with most of my missing parts and came with the 15" larger wheel option. affraid1962 Buick Skylark Convertible - Page 3 Thumbn16
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Last edited by cdnwillyg on Wed Apr 24, 2019 7:44 pm; edited 2 times in total (Reason for editing : Update: added pics)
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Post by cdnwillyg Wed May 01, 2019 8:36 pm

Well we went thru an ordeal to move the alternator from the top passenger side to the bottom so that the battery would fit properly into its holder...that's yet to come, because the inner fender needs some love!
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From this:
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Post by cdnwillyg Sat May 04, 2019 8:38 pm

So now the battery tray needed to be repaired, and one thing lead to another  
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Last edited by cdnwillyg on Sun May 05, 2019 8:50 pm; edited 2 times in total
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Post by cdnwillyg Sat May 04, 2019 8:42 pm

And now the front sheet metal is off and looks like we will be painting the inner fenders and rad support pieces???? 1962 Buick Skylark Convertible - Page 3 Thumbn28
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Post by cdnwillyg Mon May 06, 2019 7:24 pm

Got all the front sheet metal media blasted and painted ready to go back on!
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Post by cdnwillyg Sat May 18, 2019 9:26 pm

We finally have the engine bay done except for a few small items, formed heater hose required,new temp sensor, new rad cap and install coolant.
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Post by cdnwillyg Sat Jun 15, 2019 6:15 pm

Not much happening as it seems any issues with parts puts these girls on hold until something is found. I had it running today and it sounds great starts good but still needs the carb done. The heater control valve works okay but started to leak, I had an old one that didn't work and leaked so  I tried to see if it could be repaired at least to stop leaking...not successful so I decided I need to see how it was constructed at the very least. I think the rubbers must get hard from age and heat over time as to why they don't work or the shaft becomes disconnected.
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Post by regal81455 Mon Jun 17, 2019 1:45 pm

Lot's of good info, pics, & updates here!! Thanks for keeping us in the loop! Lookin' like you're whippin' her into a real beauty!
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Post by cdnwillyg Mon Jun 17, 2019 2:34 pm

Thanks Regal just trying to pay back for all the help I have received here.
Its just to bad not more activity on here, not too many forums that cover these year Buicks.
I'm just cleaning up the engine compartment, then on to the brakes and I think she should pass our safety here, then good to drive it finally.
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Post by cdnwillyg Tue Jun 18, 2019 3:19 pm

Finally got the engine bay done. Just need to install the hood.
Check out the brakes, e-brake, muffler and I think it should be ready for inspection.1962 Buick Skylark Convertible - Page 3 Thumbn41


Last edited by cdnwillyg on Wed Apr 15, 2020 7:56 am; edited 2 times in total
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Post by cdnwillyg Sat Jun 22, 2019 7:56 pm

Not sure what to think about tmining this 215. I found tdc on cylinder 1 and noticed timing mark on harmonic is at about 1 o'clock but should be at 11 o'clock by timing cover scale. Engine runs great but can't figure out why the mark is so far out ...any ideas?
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Post by 62cutlassconvert Sun Jun 23, 2019 7:03 pm

Mine was off too, used a piston stop to establish true TDC and remarked the harmonic balance. From what I read it’s not an unusual finding in general, not just the 215. From now on I will use a degree wheel and piston stop before eng goes in.

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Post by cdnwillyg Sun Jun 23, 2019 11:07 pm

Thanks, I am going to try and figure out how this could even happen but if yours is out to then I'm not loosing my mind. It's running great now but will put it under load and see if it will ping, if so then just retard timing until it stops.

Found this info 22/03/20
Buick Small Block V8 and V6 Front Covers
This article appeared in The British V8 Newsletter - Volume XIV, Issue 1 - January 2006

by: Kurt Schley

The front covers for the 1961-63 Oldsmobile/Buick 215 and 62-63 Buick V6, the 1964 - 67 Buick 300 and later Buick V6's are basically interchangeable. However, there are differences which may make one cover better suited for a particular application.

Timing Marks - The timing mark tab on the front cover of the '61 - '63 215 and V6 are on the oil pump side of the cover (right side). The 300 front cover timing mark tab is on the opposite side ( left side). If a 300 crank is used in a 300 block, a 300 front cover should also be used. If the 215 front cover is retained, the timing mark tab will be on the wrong side. Many of the later V6 front covers have no timing tab (as shown in Photo 5).


Last edited by cdnwillyg on Sun Mar 22, 2020 2:21 pm; edited 1 time in total (Reason for editing : possible explanation of the timing mark wrong side??)
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Post by 62cutlassconvert Mon Jun 24, 2019 7:32 am

My revulcanized harmonic balancer was done off a little which is not that unusual from what I read. New ones can also be off.
Not sure how you’re running your vacuum for your vacuum,n advance but you need to take it into consideration when setting up your timing. Original 4 bbl setup was with manifold vacuum which My
My rebuilt harmonic balancer was done “off”, not so uncommon, even on new. Piston stop is easy to use and you can find where your mark should be. “Total Advance “timing light is also Very handy if you want to see how you timing advances and I’df you end up running more than factory timing.
Olds 4bbl was original factory setup with manifold vacuum which provided some vacuum advance at idle. As you will note they have you set up initial timing with vacuum disconnected and the spec for my Ols 4bbl is 71/2 degrees btdc. When you connect vacuum you will provide more advance. If you run ported vacuum there is no vacuum at idle and so no addiditional advance with vacuum connected until you open the throttle. So you can run more mechanical advance with ported vs manifold vacuum at idle. Also, keep in mind that if you run too retarded the eng will generate more heat and could run hot. Also, I had my distributor recurved for the modern gas. Jeff at Advanced Distributor in MI did it. Lots of discussions on line of manifold vs. ported vacuum.. Either way too retired runs hot.

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Post by cdnwillyg Mon Jun 24, 2019 7:48 am

All good info, thank you.
I will put the car under load and see if it pings, will adjust until it just starts to then retard about 2* and call it good. It is running real nice and smooth sitting in the garage and revs with no flat spot so I think I should be close!


Last edited by cdnwillyg on Mon Jun 24, 2019 9:08 am; edited 1 time in total
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Post by 62cutlassconvert Mon Jun 24, 2019 8:00 am

Sorry for the screwed up post. This site comes up weird on my iPad, mobile version I guess.

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Post by cdnwillyg Mon Jul 29, 2019 6:52 pm

No problem here!!!
I  shifted energy into making sure this girl has good brakes and that the emergency works to pass our OPI to get her on the road.
Boy was I surprised to see that all the brakes had been done with new cylinders and lines. Very Happy 1962 Buick Skylark Convertible - Page 3 Thumbn50
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Post by cdnwillyg Mon Jul 29, 2019 7:01 pm

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Drums were all in great shape too.
Next is muffler and a few lights that decided to stop working.
Oh so close now!
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Post by cdnwillyg Wed Aug 28, 2019 10:59 pm

I have completed the exhaust system using the muffler off the parts car, worked well.
I have one front drum/hub that has separated that I need to get from the parts car to finish that. But I have this brake locking when brake pedal pushed, hoping the hub/drum will fix that, also it wants to dip to the drivers side when turned to steering stop on that side...any ideas?
Pulled all my parts off the parts car so soon to the crusher...still a lot of good parts but not needed or wanted it appears by others.
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Post by Wailleur Mon Sep 02, 2019 2:55 am

Thanks for photos
Very good job

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Post by cdnwillyg Thu Sep 05, 2019 6:13 pm

Wailleur wrote:Thanks for photos
Very good job
Thank you, to bad more guys aren't using this forum....oh well
I need some opinions on which rims to run as I have to buy new tires for one of them.

This pic is of the stock 13" which came with the car:
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This pic of the stock 15" which came off my parts car:
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This wheel does fill the wheel well better but I think the original does more justice to the car.
What are your thoughts please.
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Post by Wailleur Fri Sep 06, 2019 1:02 am

I like the 13" but i think the 15" are better and looks like more custom.

My car is a 15" (look but i have to change it if you know some website to buy 15" wheel)

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