1962 Buick Skylark Convertible

Again, I would not be too hopeful on old cylinders especially if they sat a long time. Don't know why you have problems with new line fittings. Both the supplier in Florida who I wasn't happy with, and Convertible Services in Calif who I was happy with supplied lines that fit the old cylinders. Ended up having to buy new cylinders because my old ones functioned but leaked after a few uses.

Yeah I think I might have gotten the wrong ones but they say they are looking into it, we will see what happens. I think I have found an adapter that may work. Can you tell me if your new cylinders have the same size fitting as the ones that go to the pump which on mine are both the 1/2"-20 TPI.

I can't say for sure, everything has been installed for a while now. I will say the new lines fit the old cylinder and the new cylinders from Convertible Services.

"Convertible Top Guy's" are going to send me the proper set of hoses for my car and cylinders, good resolve to the problem. Now to try and get the guy that's fixing my dash to get back to me, not sure why some guys agree to do something and then fail to either do it or get back to you.
I want to start to put his car back together and get the inspection done to drive it.....this year yet!!

I think my first set of lines were from those guys-based in Florida? They're were really stiff and too long. Worked ok but not preferred.
Convertible Service had softer more pliable lines the right length.

You're going to use Trans fluid right?

Yes I will use the tranny fluid in the power top system.
I had another top company call and said that the original cylinders for 62-63 Skylarks used the 7/16" fittings, so if that is the case not sure what I have here that CTG is now making right? Some one has their info wrong here but this is what was installed some 35 years ago.
Well I finally got my dash back from the guy that fixed the wire trace but I wish they would have tested the entire circuitry as discussed but not letting this out of my sight again after I found out how tough it is to replace? So will power this up my self and make sure all lights work and get my dash back together today!!!!

Rather than power it up to test it, use a meter and check continuity from point to point on ALL traces, connector pins, component inserts, ground points. It is really very simple. You can see everything, it's a single sided board. If you see a "bump" in a trace that is a suspect area. Probe contact areas on either side and see if you have continuity. If it has lifted off the substrate it may be cracked creating an open circuit. The mounting screws provide ground for the board and they must all work for the components they are grounding. You may get away with a break between some of the ground points if the component (light, gauge,...) is grounded at another point.

You're putting a lot of faith in those old cylinders, they will likely leak and need to be replaced. If they are something funny you may want to cut your losses and replace them up front IMO.

P.S. Are you sure they didn't check all circuits and pins? They should have done that as a matter of course. Would have taken them a few minutes.

Good info, on the dash circuit board. Yeah I asked him if he had, or the girl that did the work and he said no???? But the pins are now epoxied in place so they can't move and he did a nice job on the broken mount.
The cylinders well we will see, they move nicely with air and there seems to be no leaks. Really this top will go up in the fall and down in the spring so even if they are a little finicky should be fine. I did find adapters for the difference in sizes on the cylinders so that help if I have to replace them. I do think I have the original cylinders based on the hoses and how everything was installed but who's to say can't find any info on these at all!

Not a good repair service, wouldn't use them again if it was me.

Sticky is not the issue, if they leak they will leak fluid in the area of the rams. Also allow air into system which will result in erratic performance eventually, and it will only get worse. Mine worked ok initially, not as good as the new ones I finally put in, and then started leaking. I believe there is a drain hole in the floor right there so I guess it won't build up too much. Check you pump fluid level cause if you run it too low top action will fail and you may burn up the pump.

I get what your saying, just need to get them working first.

BTW, Convertible Services advised me to NOT operate the top on battery only. Connect your charger to the battery at upper level amps setting if you can't run the engine. Very hard on the pump if you don't.

Thanks will do! Just need to wait for the new hoses.
I got the dash in so now onto getting the signal, brake and back up lights working, as well as the heater blower seems to be stuck/not turning. I have a white spaded extra wire from under the dash that seems to have no place to go, it looks factory wiring????any ideas?
All my dash lights work as in heater switch, radio, glove box, trans selector, and even the ash tray . Was there any under dash courtesy lights in these cars?

My Olds has courtesy lights on both sides at the floor vents. I forget what color the wires are. I do believe the wires going to the door courtesy light switches are white and only a single wire as the switch grounds to the body where it pushes in.

My doors don't look like they ever had any switches there and this wire is only on when the dash lights are on?

Do you have a schematic? Should be in your factory manual, and if you don't have a factory manual you should get one. Ebay, probably around $50-$75. The manual will answer lots of your questions.

Yeah I have a manual and it doesn't show anything there but it also doesn't have my power top switch either or trunk light, so it must be a generic schematic..my guess.

The Olds Factory Service Manual came out in 1961 with the first F85. There were no convertibles or Jetfires in 61 so unique features of those cars are not in the manual. For example, top wiring schematic, convertible window mechanisms, etc. If Buick is like Olds they came out with a 1962 Supplement to the 1961 Manual. I have one and it covers the Olds convertible well. Sounds like you need a supplement.

I am sure someone on this site can tell you what's happening there for Buick

I got my new top hoses today and they are exactly like the originals so good on Convertible Top Guys they came thru.


In the mean time I have taken my seats and painted the frames and rails to clean them up before installation. I also got some leather reminments
that I will weave thru the springs below the seats  to give them a new smell....I hope it works?



So I will now get the top working and then finish installing the interior...

Both look nice. Gotta do that to my seats.

I got the top working fine with the old original cylinders with ATF as the fluid.
Seats are done and installed looking okay for the originals as well.
Now on to the mechanical stuff which I hope goes good as well. Still have the door panels to clean up but good as is for now.

I could use some advice or info on where to pick up a heater blower motor, Delco Appliance 5044464 13.5v or a modern day replacement.
hanks

You seem to be scootin' right along!! Should be a keeper!

I scored a 61 Special for parts.....mainly for the trunk lid but a lot of useable parts even though it's a 4 dr sedan.
I was wondering what are acceptable compression readings on the 215? I have been told they should be up near 190# but that seems high to me?

Don't have the shop manual handy but my fresh motor with only 600 miles on it has 175# cold after 3 compression strokes. Double checked with another gauge. The 4 bbl olds eng is 10.25:1
and I think the Buick 215 is similar so you could expect a higher figure than say a 9:1 eng. Your shop manual should give you a figure.